Final afternoon of trying to sleep

1545 Monday. We have one last shot at the summit starting tonight. Forecast is better, and what we saw of the snow today Bob thought encouraging. The lower route should hold together for ascent in the dark. Higher up we will likely have to make our own way, but it will be light by then.

We spent the morning and early afternoon setting up anchors above a crevasse to practice rescue a couple hundred feet higher along the route. That devolved or evolved into some belayed crevasse climbing. We were down climbing to a ledge then climbing back up, but I explored a bit left on the ledge, jumped a bit and was trying to make it across the end of the ledge to the next wall, separated by a branch of the crevasse, when the whole thing fell out below me. I think both my axes came out of the relatively loose snow wall of the crevasse. Or something. A few seconds later the ledge came apart enough to hit the bottom. Fucking thrilling, and that was enough crevasse climbing for me.

Back to base camp for lunch/dinner, melting more snow and getting everything dry for tomorrow. I really was not feeling like going up tonight…but instead I want to hike out. That’s not an option, so why sit here when I feel strong enough to go along on the attempt? We will try to wake up at 2230 again and hope for better weather.

Like last evening, a group showed up here and is gonna be noisy for a while. It’s a guided IMG group, so our quiet corner of the mountain turned into a circus, complete with large tents. They got here a while ago, though, so hopefully we will get some sleep.

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