Abbreviated first day on the trail

Like everything now, this won’t post until much later, but it’s 1615 on April 10th, Wednesday. I’m in Pothana with Raz at the first guesthouse we found on the south side of town.

Pothana is only about 45 minutes walk, at our pace, which was faster than most we saw, from Dhampus. That bodes well for the rest of the trek and our chances of reaching ABC by the end. Rain is just rolling in now, so tomorrow the stunningly close hints of Fishtail and Annapurna south should give way to the whole of those peaks rising above the steep foothills here. It’s a beautiful town, as I discovered a minute ago when leaving my bed for the first time.

We left Pokhara at 0730 by something like a Land Rover. Around an hour and a half later, we were deposited in Dhampus, and we started off. I was miserable. I left today because Raz’s time was slipping away, because feeling like hell was a lot better than yesterday’s feeling like death, and because getting us this far means tomorrow we can actually cover some ground.

My stomach now feels abnormal but better. A little tight, possibly as much from lack of food as any. I ate soup for dinner last night (summoned to my room by a text message to the manager of Peace Eye, thank heavens for him), a mango lassi for breakfast and a coconut bar for lunch. I’m ready for real food for dinner, I think, though my appetite is low. Even finishing the snack bar was tough.

Let’s see what tomorrow holds, but I’m confident in our ability to press on and make it as far as I want to go. If it doesn’t happen in its entirety, I’ll be happy just seeing this place and anywhere else along the way.

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